It is an essential inessential. It is a paradox that this is one item that you probably hated and paid least attention to in school as a young boy, yet if there is a single element in the male wardrobe, so seemingly superfluous yet making the most definite statement of style, it is the necktie. It is to men what jewellery is to women, pure ornamentation, but is important in imparting that dash of colour and verve, expressing personality and individuality.

HOW TO BUY A TIE

Some say that neckties are an extension of tribal beads; others say that they were medieval protections against viruses. Whatever their origin, your neckwear is like a flag that signals other ships. It can signal social class, school afliliation, personality, attitude, and professionalism. More important, you should view your suit like a picture frame enclosing your individuality. You should choose a 100% silk tie by its colour, design, and quality. Avoid polyester like the proverbial plague.

In a sartorial rebellion against the riotous, overdesigned ties of the ‘80s, neckwear has now reverted to the understated. Small geometric prints (the foulard), loosely woven silk knits with an irregular surface (the genadine), the club tie with heraldic patterns or crests on a dark ground or the ‘rep’ tie of silk with diagonal stripes. The colours, however, are bold, solid, and vibrant - red, cobalt blue, gold and burgundy.

You can judge a tie’s quality by its fall. Drape the tie across your wrist and let it hand down as it would from your neck. It should drop straight down without twisting. The tie’s texture should also be smooth to the touch. You may also want to check the back of the wide side of the tie for its bar tack. The bar tack is the short horizontal thread that keeps the two sides of the tie together. It should not show signs of stressing the fabric around it.

The interlining of the tie should be chosen so as to match the silk’s blend, nap and weight. Heavy silks will have a light interlining, and vice versa.

TYING KNOTS

Tying a tie has always been a problem for men, but there are some things you have to do yourself. The most common knot is the standard four-in- hand knot. There is also the Windsor knot (named after the Duke who abdicated the throne of England) and the more popular half-Windsor. Whatever you choose, have a knot that takes up the space between the collar-ends at the top of the shirt.

Taking off the tie may seem simple, and it is. Yet many ties are ruined or damaged by men who yank off their ties and toss them to the floor at the end of the day. The best way to remove a tie is to simply reverse the steps you took in tying it.

Try not to just pull down on the knot. This unties the tie, but it also stretches the fabric. Once you have the tie off, hang it up right away. Knit ties, however, should be rolled up and stored that way. If they hang on a rack, they can get stretched too much and lose their shape.

See the different illustrations.

HERE ARE SOME ADDITIONAL HINTS ON TYING TIES.

• Be sure that the dimple in the knot is centered. If it’s not, your whole look appears lopsided.

Be sure the knot is tight enough to reach the top of the shirt. Loosening one’s tie is a relief, but at least start the day with a crisp look, even in casual attire.

• Don’t make the knot too big. This is a common mistake. If it does turn out too big, try a half-Windsor knot.

• When buying a tie, make sure it lies flat against your body. Otherwise its shape only gets worse.

• Avoid linen ties. They wear out too easily.

• Be sure the end of the tie falls to the middle of your belt buckle. Most important, never wear a soiled tie!